Georges mini
15 posts
Joined: 16/06/2006 16:47:40
Location: oldham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
boot floor
Hi there.
can any one tell me how to take out my boot floor and replace with a new one, one of those full panels with the battery box and seat panel,also will i need anyting else replacing or can you just replace the big panel.
Any help at all please...
Posted: Sep 17, 2007 06:29 PM
LH
18 posts
Joined: 19/07/2007 18:59:21
Location: Chard United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
mini magasine are doing it in the next/latest issue.
last issue was the lower rear panel.
I just fitted a 9 inch boot floor panel to mine.
Unless you are going to apply the panel trimmed as a patch in the centre of the boot, you will need a valance and closing panels ala5528/ala8623.
I saved the subframe rear mounts inside the boot. They are welded to the arch. I left them in place and removed all the layers below. You may wish to replace them.
Recomended tools;
angle grinder with cutting discs, grinding discs, non brassed wire brush attachment
spot weld chisel,
spot weld removing drill. there are 2 types I have seen, solid like a normal drill or my preferred type like a mini hole saw.
power hacksaw/ small jigsaw
spot welder , damn they're heavy
Posted: Sep 18, 2007 12:31 AM
john
25 posts
Joined: 15/01/2008 17:41:40
Location: worcester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Repairing boot floor questions????
hi everyone
As you can see from the photos,i need to get my boot floor repaired ( holes around the spare tyre area and battery box and both cornes by the lights have rusted ).What would be the best option to buy and repair? should i buy a full boot floor panel or just get corner repair panels and patch up the holes with plates??? Also,if i replace these panels do i have to replace the rear valance aswell???
Cheers
Posted: Nov 16, 2008 06:45 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Repairing boot floor questions
Your rust doesn't look too bad, and it'll probably be easier and cheaper to patch (unless you're going for a concours finish).
If the valance is really rotten you should replace it - it's very easy to do and the panel is cheap. You don't need the closing (flat) panel, just the outer (curved) panel. The closing panel just traps mud and water and causes it to rust quicker!
Posted: Nov 17, 2008 10:39 AM
jag_clarke
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
boot floor.
i agree with tim, repair pannels are cheap its big job to replace whole of boot floor and yours doesnt look that bad. i used a cheap repair pannel rear 6" i found spare wheel hole didnt line up correct. so i lined up spare wheel hole and cut excess pannel under where bumper is. it looked good after even with bumper off you could hardly tell was repair done. i made a lip on boot floor for repair pannel to weld onto. then spot welded it to rear pannel (plug would be just as gd). then welded new valance on i used closing pannel as adds lil strength at rear and heavily waxoiled inside to prevent rust. also use weld through primer in welding joints to help prevent future rust in them. u may find rear pannel around boot hinges is rusty in which case u can buy this as repair section.
battery box either fit new one of patch it as its not really seen. shouldnt be mot issue unless battery is considered likly to fall out which tester may not like. in terms of mot everything within 30cm sphear of ur subframe mounts will need to be structurally sound without significant rust holes. basicly if screwdriver can go through it it will fail, fillers ect dont count and will also fail, however they are fine to skim over welds to get good finish.
Posted: Nov 17, 2008 02:24 PM
Diggy
13 posts
Joined: 01/11/2008 14:07:42
Location: Pretoria South Africa
Get yourself a few "resin fibre disks" put it on a grinder and proparly romove paint and rust. then use choped shrand fibre glass sheets cut them how you want it and then do your layout where you wat to patch and then put a LOT of resin over it after dried then put a thick coat of rubberising inside the boot. i have fixed 3rd dagree rust like this! but dont know of the mot will pass...???
Posted: Nov 18, 2008 08:11 PM
John
Rear ended! Write off?
yeah if u get a good second hand boot lid, good secondhand rear subframe (pre or post 1976 depending on year of ur mini), new boot floor, rear valance, rear lower half pannel, new bumper. so thoses bits will cost around 200- 500 depending on if u buy new parts or second hand. welding and spraying £800 maybe. so your looking at prob 1300 if insurance company do it. if u bourt bits and welded it urself (plug weld with mig welder) and maybe even spray it urself you could do it for about 300. first empty fuel tank, ideally it would be best to remove one door and role car onto side on an old double matris. remove subframe, cut and weld boot floor. prepare boot floor for painting paint underside of floor refit replacement subframe. role car back to al 4 wheel grind off rear pannel lower half if an easy place to weld so around above the rear lights. weld new rear lower half pannel by spot/plug welding it to seam of side pannels and boot floor, weld join above lights, prepare for painting, paint rear and inside boot, fit door, boot lid, fuel tank and bumper and drive away.
practice welding welding before welding shell, get nice clean metal for welds.
if they say its a right off as they will have a book value for it that is prob low if you can show them prof that there value is wroung so mini mags with prices of others in then with any luck they will fix it. thats what my friends dad did with his daugthers mini and they fixed it.
Posted: Jan 16, 2008 03:39 PM
In that case they sell a repair pannel for rear of boot floor, plus repair pannel for bellow the lights, then just need new bumper, and boot lid and valance
Posted: Jan 16, 2008 09:11 PM
Guy
7 posts
Joined: 26/08/2006 21:34:16
Location: Great Missenden United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear of Rear Sub-frame Mounting Welding - Load On or Off?
Hello, Can anyone give me any general advice on this repair please?
But specifically regarding: The new “Floor to wheel arch bracket” (part# 14A6609) fits well under load (i.e. wheel on ground) but the valance mounting panels has a great big gap between it and the boot floor. If I take the load off: the valance mounting bracket/boot floor gap closes but the floor to wheel arch bracket does not fit at all well. Both the valance and its bracket are very sound. I also have to fit new panel called “Boot side repair panel” (part# MS24R) MiniSpares photo below.
Posted: Aug 17, 2007 02:55 PM
J. Clarke
Rust in my Boot
doesnt look too bad, best buy replacement rear section of boot floor up to arches. remove rear valance, cut rear section of boot floor off then weld new section in then weld rear valnce in rembering to make sure u can get bumper on with hole alignment. can use a mig welder then use a combination of plug and seam welding. repair pannel may not line up that well i found so make sure wheel well lines up then cut excess off at edge to line up with vance lip for bumper then drill holes for bumper if nessary. as its not very vissable area you could just paint it with airosoles after , all pannels are cheap so wont cost u alot really just a weekend.
Posted: Jun 12, 2008 09:23 PM
Rear Subframe
I have seen some sort of felt packing between the boot floor and the subframe on various Minis, but have never thought it wise to replace it, as it only collects water, mud & salt and encourages things to rust quicker. Possibly it was intended to reduce vibrations on the boot floor, but I cant say Ive ever noticed any problems in that area. The holes in the subframe are there to help the water drain out, not to stop it getting in, so taping them up is not a good idea! They dont of course help the mud and salt get out (see above) so its a good idea to give it a good hose down once or twice a year. The subframe on my 63 Cooper was replaced in 1980, and I just had to do it again last year. I reckon 25 years isnt bad going.
Posted: Feb 18, 2006 03:58 PM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fuel pressure
It may be the fuel tank is vacuuming - make sure the breather pipe isnt blocked and that you have the right fuel cap for fuel tank type - i.e. breather tank has non-breather cap and voce versa. You should most definitely have a breather tank (tube rubnning from top of tank inside boot down past the boot floor). KC
Posted: Feb 18, 2006 11:17 PM
Crashnburn1981
158 posts
Joined: 04/12/2004 16:50:02
Location: glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Subframe Hell
Hi all, got to the dreaded pont of the resto yesterday, the rear subframe, well needless to say after following all guidelines and using easing oil, every damn bolt snapped off, even the ones going through the boot floor. Now the boot floor ones werent a problem, but the ones going into the body at the front edge of the rear subframe were a problem, these haev now been drilled out and im going to make up some captive nut plates to go on the inside of the pockets. Just wondered anyone else had this problem, and how did you get around it, or any advice on offer. Cheers Nick
Posted: Feb 23, 2006 07:53 PM
Jason Evans
4 posts
Joined: 26/02/2006 07:16:30
Location: welshpool United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
respray
Id say around £800 to £1000 would be a fair price for a tidy profesional job aslong as the car is reasonably sound,thats allowing for rust in the usual places i.e: a-panels,scuttle,front panel,rear valance etc,but expect to pay quite a bit more if the doors,boot floor,inner 1/4 panels and floor need work.best to ask someone with experience of restoring minis to check it over before you start spending on it because more often than not its a cheaper option to use the money you would spend on the body to buy a much newer mini,hope this advice is helpful
Posted: Feb 26, 2006 07:51 AM
What bits do I buy?
where is the rust in the pannels? ur car is mk5 i would think most pannels will say mk3 on and they should be fine mk 1 and 2 cars have differnt doors, boot lid and frount is differnt at bonnet edge, frount floor pan is differnt and a planels. most other pannels fit all models although there my be slight differnces. best cheak b4 u buy any.
Posted: May 28, 2006 05:12 PM
Chris
10 posts
Joined: 26/10/2004 20:16:00
Location: Burntwood United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Respray
I have a friend whos been spraying and repairing for years! Hes just branched out and is working for himself now. Hes respraying mine in tahitti blue, inside out, engine bay and boot, doin all the welding (floor, battery box, rear valance) and preppin, and hes buying the paint.......£500!!!!! Cant be beaten! But im guessin that for anybody else hed charge approx 700-800. If your interested, send me an email at chrissmith182@btinternet.com, and ill send you his details.
Posted: Nov 25, 2004 06:31 PM
rich
23 posts
Joined: 17/01/2005 13:51:37
Location: Henfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fumes
Hi I recently had a similar problem - it was the breather pipe that exits from the top of the petrol tank. It should go down the back of the tank and and out of an exit in the boot floor panel - mine didnt and it wasnt till the headaches got bad that I finally figured it out!
Posted: May 23, 2005 11:37 AM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Somerford Minis
Anyone had any body work done here? What's their work/prices like? I've got a shell that needs a rear quarter, wheel arch and boot floor replacement as well as a door hingle panel and while I don't want to pay the earth for it, I'd rather pay a bit extra to not have to do it again in two years like some places.
Posted: Jun 27, 2007 12:07 AM
Petrol Caps - Vented & Non Vented
Well, my 63 Cooper has a small plastic breather pipe, that is fitted to the top of the petrol tank, and runs down the back of the rear seat panel and out through a hole in the boot floor, so it doesn't need a vented cap - though I can't see any reason not to fit one because if that breather pipe gets blocked then you're in trouble. I think the breather was removed on later cars (can't get into the boot of my 88 to check) but I suspect it was still there in 67. Just open the boot and have a look.
Posted: Nov 05, 2006 08:12 AM